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Grove Park Inn & Resort, Asheville, North Carolina

Visit the Beautiful Grove Park Inn, in North Carolina

by Rachel L. Miller

Ask any writer, director or actor about the importance of a story's setting, and they'll probably tell you that it matters...a lot.

A good setting is just as important as a story's central character -- hell, the right place can even manage to outshine some of the most beautiful people on Earth. For example, imagine the towering Rocky Mountain backdrop of the mid-'90s film "Legends of the Fall" -- I easily can picture each white-capped peak in the distance, wild horses galloping through a lush green valley, but the image of the movie's star -- Brad Pitt -- is rather hazy. And believe me, that really means something coming from a 25-year-old female.

View from Grove Park Inn Resort & Spa
The Blue Ridge Mountain view from one of the resort's scenic walkways.
Photo: Rachel L. Miller

So yes, setting matters, and even more so when it comes to selecting your next vacation spot. Even before embarking on my journey (a 10-hour drive) to Asheville, North Carolina, I had been told numerous times that the area was simply gorgeous. My mother kept on and on (like mothers often do) about how I would definitely fall in love with the scenery of the Blue Ridge Mountains and never want to return to Michigan.

My family apparently had traveled to western North Carolina when I was just shy of 10 (and just plain shy), and all I really remember is purchasing a bedazzled acid-washed denim purse, one that was all the rage back in the '80s. But I wasn't about to let that horrid, embarrassing memory keep me away from Asheville. Plus, my mother's constant chatter convinced me to get on the road...and as fast as possible.

I chose Asheville as the destination for my first solo road trip for a number of reasons (all of which will be included in an ultra-exciting road trip story to come in August) -- but the main one was the ease of the route. I drove south on I-75 to I-40 east -- it was that simple. An added benefit was the breathtaking scenery through which I passed. As soon as I hit the Kentucky border (sorry, Ohio, but you look too much like home), the drive seemed more adventurous. Nothing, however, prepared me for the vistas that awaited me at the North Carolina border. Mountains dominated the landscape on either side of the twisting highway; a new wave of forested hills appeared around each steep curve.

Sammons Wing of The Grove Park Inn
The back of the Inn (on the left) and the Sammons Wing. The blue peak in the center belongs to the resort's world-class spa.
Photo: courtesy of Grove Park Inn Resort & Spa

That said, driving to Asheville's historic Grove Park Inn Resort & Spa, located at the top of a winding, narrow road, felt like an awesome discovery. When my Subaru finally pulled onto the resort's driveway and I was greeted by a pleasant man wearing a tall top hat, my first instinct was to brandish a flag and claim the Grove Park as my own. But part of me thought the kind (and rather cute) valets clamoring about might consider such behavior a bit odd, so I just gave them a slight nod of appreciation and headed inside.

The lobby is usually the busiest place in most hotels and Grove Park is no exception. I arrived just before the 4 p.m. check-in time, so dozens of resort guests were milling about, grabbing a pre-dinner drink at the bar, relaxing in leather-padded chairs and couches or examining the fine stone craftsmanship of the walls and fireplace. Others were meandering out to the terrace to take in the panoramic view -- the Asheville skyline to the left and layers upon layers of mountains to the right.

View from Sammons Wing
The view from a room on the fifth floor of the Sammons Wing. Simply gorgeous.
Photo: Rachel L. Miller

As appealing as the view was, I needed to start making my way to my room -- hours spent in the car warranted a quick nap and a refreshing shower. The friendly hotel staff was quick to explain that the Grove Park is divided into three sections: there's the original historic inn located above the lobby area with its signature orange tiled roof. Then there's the Vanderbilt Wing (named after the illustrious family who lived in nearby Biltmore Estate) and the Sammons Wing, where I stayed.

My first lesson in the unique floor structure at Grove Park was that all the floors in the Sammons Wing are below the lobby level. Once I walked from the lobby to the appropriate elevator, I would press the down button. The simple act managed to throw my mind for a loop until I saw the resort from a distance and realized that the Sammons Wing is built into a sloping hill, therefore allowing most of the building's eight stories to rest comfortably below the lobby level.

The first thing I did when reaching my room was rush to the window. The view was nothing short of tremendous -- an emerald green fairway, surrounded in trees, led my eye up to wispy white clouds tickling the top of a distant mountain ridge. I cracked the window and was amazed that I could actually hear bits and pieces of a conversation taking place on the men's tee below. Other than that, it was perfectly quiet and still. I sat in an upholstered chair, staring at the mountain landscape, marveling at the fact that I was only minutes from the city of Asheville, yet still felt as if I had stumbled upon a secluded oasis of sorts.

My suitcase (and the wrinkled clothes it held) temporarily forgotten, I just enjoyed the view for a few minutes -- the way the sun peeked out from the clouds for a brief second, drenching the golf course with dazzling light, before retreating like a shy child behind a mother's leg. The golfing foursome moved on to the next hole and for that moment, I felt like the resort existed solely for my benefit.

Of course, with almost all of the resort's rooms booked for the busy summer weekend, I knew that wasn't the case. But a girl can imagine wearing a diamond-encrusted tiara while reigning supreme over a vast kingdom of mountain property, can't she?

Sunset at the Grove Park Inn Resort & Spa
Sunset at the Grove Park Inn Resort & Spa.
Photo: Rachel L. Miller

Delusional or not, I eventually decided to unpack and explore the room. A spacious double room with a large workdesk and even larger bathroom vanity area, my favorite thing -- oddly enough -- ended up being the CD player stashed inconspicuously below the television set. Yes, I'm easy to please like that. But in all of my travels, I really have learned that sometimes the little things make all the difference in the world. And one of those little things, in this case, was the CD player.

I made the mistake of curling up on the ultra-comfortable bed for a few moments -- and was quickly lulled to sleep for a revitalizing thirty minutes. Although I wanted to be angry with myself for napping when I had yet to explore the resort, I was really too content to bother. Instead, I threw on some nice clothes and headed back up to the lobby for a cocktail.

The closer the sun edged to the horizon, the more people flocked to the lobby area. And although the primary age range was something from 30-60, there were those younger...and older. I watched a group of women meet up for dinner after a day of meetings at the resort, then chuckled as I overheard a 12-year-old boy good-naturedly rib his father about the man's lack of hair while their family relaxed on a leather couch and did some people-watching.

And the vast lobby -- or Great Hall -- is the prime place at Grove Park to do such a thing. I spent a solid hour in a cushy Adirondack chair, just nursing a beer and watching people come and go. Live music fills the lobby's Great Hall every night of the week -- you'll hear everything from piano standards to pop favorites, depending on the time and day of the week. A few brave couples even danced, garnering quite a bit of attention (and praise) from onlookers.

Casual dress and resortwear are acceptable at Grove Park's public areas -- the only inappropriate clothing is pool apparel, such as flip-flops, cutoff shorts or athletic wear. Jeans are also seldom seen around the resort. That said, there were some women dressed in pricey suits, others in flowy summer dresses and still others in casual capris -- all looking equally suitable for the environment.

Most men were dressed in golf attire -- fitting since Grove Park is quite well-known for its fine golf course, where a number of golf masters (such as Bobby Jones, Ben Hogan and Fuzzy Zoeller) have played in the past.

A great view of the golf course (and the rest of the resort's property) can be had from Chops at Sunset Terrace, where I had the pleasure to dine during my stay at Grove Park. Also, as the restaurant's name implies, this is the place to enjoy a gorgeous pastel-hued sunset. Not to mention a thick, juicy steak seasoned to perfection...and a generous helping of homemade mashed potatoes that made my mother's version pale in comparison (sorry, Mom!).

Grove Park Inn Resort waterfalls
Guests take in the view from a landing near the historic Inn.
Photo: Rachel L. Miller

Including Chops, there are three restaurants on the premises. Horizons, located in the Sammons Wing, is one of the most elegant restaurants in the city and has won a number of awards, including DiRoNA's Fine Dining Award, Wine Spectator's Award of Excellence, and AAA's Four Diamond Award. The Blue Ridge Dining Room is located in the Vanderbilt Wing and offers a la carte American cuisine.

All three restaurants have stunning views...just like every other area of the resort. There's pretty much nowhere on the resort devoid of a gorgeous view -- even the world-class spa uses its location to provide the maximum amount of relaxation.

The Spa at the Grove Park Inn Resort

The Spa at Grove Park Inn Resort
The pool area at the Spa -- the rock, water and glass centerpiece of the $42 million dollar structure.
Photo: courtesy of Grove Park Inn Resort & Spa

Speaking of the Spa, it was definitely the highlight of my stay at Grove Park. In early 2001, the Spa opened at a cost of $42 million, instantly making it one of the South's (and the country's) premiere retreats.

What I noticed first at the check-in desk was that, surprisingly enough, the ratio of men to women was pretty equal. The Grove Park is known as a romantic retreat for couples, and that theme can also continue to the Spa, where couples treatments are quite popular. And although the men's spa and women's spa are separate, the pool area is shared -- making it a great way to spend the day with your loved one. However, the official word from the folks at Grove Park is that 70 percent of its clientele are female, while the remaining 30 percent are male.

In addition to normal spa fare -- a wide variety of massages, facials and wraps -- Grove Park's offers exclusive treatments in its Heaven Series, which is aptly named because after my 80 minute treatment, I felt blissfully relaxed. In fact, I was so content that it was hard for me to walk straight. Luckily, my therapist was kind enough to walk to me to a serene sitting area and provide me with a warm, scented neck pillow and a delicious nutrient-infused smoothie.

The Fire, Rock, Water and Light treatment which I received is the spa's most popular, consisting of a full body exfoliation, a buttermilk and honey whirlpool bath, cream body wrap and waterfall massage. It was a luxurious, continuous string of pampering that I'd only be too eager to experience again. My skin has felt buttery smooth since the treatment (and that was over a month ago).

The pool area is the centerpiece of the 40,000 square foot spa -- unifying the elements of fire, rock, water and light in a spectacularly dramatic fashion. A glass atrium gives guests the opportunity to lazily float in the mineral pool while watching clouds roll by; and an astounding 6,500 fiber optic lights sparkle over the lap pool, giving an illusion of white stars peeking through a rich navy sky.

Outdoor Whirlpool at Grove Park Inn
The outdoor whirlpool area at the Spa. Sit back and enjoy!
Photo: courtesy of Grove Park Inn Resort & Spa

Resort guests can have a full-day access pass to the spa (including dry sauna, steam room, contrast pools, mineral pool, lap pool, outdoor whirlpool and waterfall pool) for $50. If you decide to book a treatment, spa access is included in the price (make your treatment reservation as far in advance as you can -- the spa is regularly booked solid). And since the spa is open from 8 a.m. to 9 p.m., you can come and go as you please.

You can even enjoy the lovely North Carolina sunset from the spa's outdoor whirlpool area. Whether you're at Grove Park on business or vacationing with a loved one, snag a fruity drink, soak in the whirlpool and watch the last streaks of sunlight dance over the mountaintops.

After all, it is all about the setting. Just ask Brad Pitt.

IF YOU GO....

Historically Speaking: The Grove Park was "built not for the present alone, but for ages to come, and the admiration of generations yet unborn," according to Edwin Wiley Grove, the man behind the resort's existence. A number of famous people have stayed at the hotel since its opening in 1913, including F. Scott Fitzgerald, Thomas Edison, Henry Ford, Woodrow Wilson and the Roosevelts.

Getting There : The Grove Park Inn Resort & Spa is 25 minutes from the Asheville Regional Airport, which is serviced by Continental Express, Delta Connection, Carriers ASA and COMAIR, US Airways, and US Express. Located just off I-240, the resort is only a few minutes from the city of Asheville. By car, the resort is 3.5 hours from Atlanta, 2 hours from Charlotte, and 2 hours from Knoxville, 6 hours from Cincinnati. And an impressive 10-hour drive from Detroit, per my experience (the drive, however, is well worth it).

Rates: $119-839 (off-season) to $209-1109 (peak season). Guests can also use the resort's sports complex, which offers exercise equipment, racquetball courts and hosts aerobic classes.

Asheville: This city is eclectic, to say the least. Unique stores, restaurants and art galleries abound in Asheville. Make sure to check out the Grove Arcade Public Market, where local artisans sell their wares and crafts. I bought a jar of berry jam for a few dollars that I've been raving about ever since I returned.

Biltmore Estate: No visit to Asheville is complete without a stop by Biltmore Estate, the one-time home of the illustrious Vanderbilt family. In fact, Biltmore is one of the main reasons many people travel to Asheville. The house - a French chateau style - is enormous, grand and detailed. There's nothing else in America like it. Nothing. Plan to spend at least a few hours there, and make sure to drive slow enough to enjoy the gorgeous grounds. Take a house tour, a stroll through the gardens...and then head to the Winery to sample a few of the fine estate wines. The $36 admission to the estate includes Biltmore House, gardens and winery (and complimentary wine tasting). The admission price during the holiday season is $38. The estate is open daily from 9 A.M. until 5 P.M., except Thanksgiving Day and Christmas Day.

MORE INFORMATION....
NORTH CAROLINA TRAVEL PLANNER